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Aug 28, 2013

Day XVI

Sleeping in the bus, on the other hand, is really a horrible experience. Gosh, how excruciatingly uncomfortable it is! You cannot stretch your legs, the air is almost unbreathable, you neither can fall asleep, nor can you really wake up. You find yourself in a certain state between sleeping and being awake that seems to last for eternity. Besides, I have woken up with some weird stings on my hands and forearms that itched like crazy. Now I am wondering if there was an insect in the bus, or some insect got to one of my bags with supposedly clean T-shirt, or I got some allergic reaction to cheap Lidl muffins I wolfed down yesterday (450 g). Speaking about food, I think my last biking day marked the end of excessive eating. I was aware of that, but when I arrived in Lidl, it totally slipped my mind that from now on I should divide my rations rationally, and bought the same amount as for a usual biking day. Since I hate food wasting, I ate the usual biking portion from which I got almost sick, and needed a rest for another 2 h. It was 500 g of potato salad, one baguette and 300 g of prosciutto which I would have gulped down with easy any other day.
This is my first day of so called real vacation. I have two days left until my rideshare arrives. After assembling my bike that went easier than I had originally expected, I wandered in the city without any special intentions. I vividly remember the first days, how eager I was when I visited another new city. I was totally stunned, fascinated, mesmerized. Now, as an accustomed traveler, I somehow lost this jolly feeling. No more excitement, no more thrill. I just nodded and said to myself, OK, let's get this sightseeing done, as if it were my job I got fed up with and not something I should be happy about. I am clearly overindulged with travelling. As every overindulgence, it gradually stops bringing excitement once you cross the infamous red line. This feeling might be emphasized with the clear idea of my return, but still, I find it somehow strange. It is not a melancholic feeling, but for me, something even scarier – it is like indifference. It is really high time to go home before I get oversaturated with travelling. Yet, Barcelona has so much to offer. I was really surprised by that sheer majesty of the city castle, stunningly beautiful national museum, bizarrely built Guadi's buildings and parks, and countless monuments I had a chance to see. Barcelona is the biggest city I have visited so far.

During my whirlwind visit in Barcelona, I had a chance to see the Olympic Stadium, the picturesque National Museum, the city castle, shipyards where I got lost, the university, countless parks and architectonic marvels, bustling Barcelona streets, and many, many other things that tourist come to see here. However, I also visited the outskirt of the city, usually unknown for the tourist eye and had a chance to see the real Barcelona and to observe how people really live, not only the parade prepared for tourists. Regarding Barcelona suburbs I must say that I was very amused by the architectonic unconformity of local flat buildings. Unlike in Slovakia, where suburbs used to be built in the great Communist style and order like soldiers on a chessboard (this must also be very funny for western foreigners), here all buildings are scattered without any higher sense, at least on the first glance. Each building is somehow different, turned to its own unique direction, and has a specific color and architectonic style. The infrastructure also does not seem to follow a higher purpose, either, but it is perfectly functional. Moreover, the suburbs behind Barcelona are built on a hill full of smaller and steeper hills that made my biking quite interesting (I wish the elevation were also shown on my offline map). I would surely not like to work here as a postman! It is a pity that I did not take any picture of that, I was just too busy biking. If I could just take pictures without freeing up my hands, that would be great! I hope that Google glass will soon or later pave its way to a wide commercial application, and thus will become more affordable. In the meantime, I will always have to stop to take a picture which sometimes attracts undesired attention, especially in run-down areas. Barcelona is infamously known as the world 1st capital of thieves and I did not want to take any extra chances.

I spent some quality time in the Park of Gaudi which is basically an older arboretum with some ridiculously looking buildings. It was a nice walk, though, but I have no idea why it is so hugely popular among tourists. On my evening walk I got to know two pilgrims from Brooklyn to whom I talked for another hour. I know that I keep on repeating the same old story, but meeting someone who had the same journey of 900 km behind him is always very inspiring. It is possible to talk for days about the Camino, one hour is nothing. Even though I must admit that I felt very elated at finally finding someone for a conversation, too. I also got a great recommendation from them. I was told that there is a beautiful viewpoint on a big hill outside the city. This last daily challenge boosted my travelling sprits and I biked to reach the place. I made it just before the sunset and was blessed with one of the most beautiful sunsets during my whole summer pilgrimage. I enjoyed ritually my last can of beer during this magnificent spectacle and felt a certain sense of achievement for the end of my journey was very near.

The big hill was famous not only for the breathtaking viewpoint, but also for an amusement park and an old Salesian Monastery. The building itself was an architectonic marvel with the statue of Jesus on the top patrolling the city as you can see in Rio de Janeiro. I loitered there for a while and saw a note about 24/7 adoration service. It was half past ten, but I was too curious to let it be. A long time ago, during the preparation for my First Communion one biblical verse stuck in my mind: Keep on knocking and the door will be opened to you. Now I was eager to put it in practice, even though that I used the bell instead. An elderly monk opened the door and let me in. He looked rather perplexed, probably asking himself what this strange biker is looking for in this very unsocial hour. I made myself clear in Spanish that I want to attend the adoration and he showed me the chapel, where was really held an adoration by a priest with few monks and other guests. Now looking back at my notes, I cannot remember what my real motivation for visiting this place was; all I remember is the fact that I simply felt like I needed to go there. It was a nice experience, but that ended at the time when the communion was given - the priest ended earlier than I stood up. I wanted gallantly to let the elderly monks to go first, but it somehow slipped my mind that communion can be taken only once in a day. However, one monk saw my intention and he later came up to me with words that he would introduce me to the priest after the adoration. He did so, but a little communication problem arose: the priest did not speak a word of English, I could not explain clearly everything in Spanish and the other monk could speak only little English. They all looked rather nervous and I immediately regretted that I stirred up calm waters in the monastery so late at night. The monk made hastily few phone calls, apparently having tried to find an interpreter, while the priest and other monks stood and were fidgeting with their hands - that made even me nervous. In the end, the monk gave up, asked me for several times whether I really am a Catholic and whether I had had my First Communion as if I were a false spy, or something. Then I was asked to recite the Lord's Prayer which I did not know in English. To make things even more interesting, I recited it in Slovak and when they all ran out of questions, I received my Communion. Lol, I have never experienced so much trouble with receiving the Communion before, but I was glad that in the end it all worked out. Firstly, I thought that maybe I could find some friends there and stay in the monastery overnight, but after this embarrassing moment I rather made a quick escape. That left me with two more question: where to sleep and to charge my electronics? The next day was my very last day and it was vitally important to have my cell phone fully charged.
I remembered that there was a luxurious 5 star hotel only 1 km from the monastery. I said to myself that I will not give anything for asking, so I simply went there a very odd request. I had waited for a while in the main entrance next to a fabulous Ferrari before the air was clear, and then I spitted out to the clerk in duty quite honestly that I am a foreign adventurer who obviously cannot afford renting a room in their hotel and will be sleeping in a tent next to the road as always, but urgently needs to charge his devices for his last day in Spain. Surprisingly, the man made a very magnanimous gesture by invited me in to stay in the main lobby and even use the hotel WiFi. I refused by saying that it would be quite incongruous to have a shabby stinking tramp sitting in the lobby on a mahogany chair and spoiling the overall atmosphere. I added that all I would need is to leave my laptop and cell phone in the hotel for charging because I assume that there could not be a safer place for that. The man replied with a warm smile that it can be easily arranged, and I handed my belongings over to him. I thanked him and still could not believe that it worked out. The moral of this story: one must not be afraid to ask because there is nothing to lose – if you do not try and ask, you have already lost for you are deliberately throwing away the very little prospect that you would get what you desire. Another useful advice is that it does not matter much what you say, but how you say it. Especially by odd requests (and actually by all requests in general) one should strike a balance between being humble and confident to make a good impression. And it is not easy, I can tell you :P


For the night I wanted to ride to another viewpoint about 2 km away, but I realized that Eva's front light did not work anymore. For this reason I had to build my tent right next to the main road where I was only scarcely hidden in bushes. I originally wanted to build my tent right next to the monastery, but after having seen another wild pigs, I decided to go elsewhere. 


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