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Aug 28, 2013

Day 7


Half the fun of the travel is the esthetic of lostness.  ~Ray Bradbury



Today the road led me again through many German villages. Having woken up early, I had a good opportunity to see the brisk morning in these rural areas. Tractors and heavy machinery were everywhere on the road, farmers were taking care of their stock and you could smell the typical village scent. Not many times you have the opportunity to soak into this atmosphere, especially if you grew up and live in a town as me. I am only afraid that I am becoming numb to all what I see. I do not simply perceive things with the "wow" effect anymore, but find it somehow normal. However, the typical image of German villages goes far behind my experienced perception in Slovakia. In my country, villagers are happy to make the both ends meet and have a quite modest life. On the other hand, in Germany and Austria farmers appear to live quite comfortable life with standards that the Slovaks could only dream of.. You could barely find derelict buildings everything was like new, out from the box, nice and tidy. There were many shining examples of the ideal family house.  Solar panels were omnipresent as if they were an indispensable part of houses and each small village had a perfectly equipped sport playground. I guess it is beyond all comparison with our Slovak villages. I just hold high hopes that one day, in a far and distant future, when our politicians stop robbing every Euro fond coming to our country, maybe Slovak people in the countryside will also enjoy a better quality of life. 

At noon I biked in the picturesque landscape of another national park with many hikers and bikers on the way. Unfortunately, I got lost pretty bad, this time due to poorly marked GPS data. Out of the blue, the way along the river stopped and one had to clamber on a steep hill that was impossible with my bike. I tried to find an alternative route, but got hopelessly lost in the forest where I had to push my bike uphill for good 40 minutes, meanwhile having been ferociously attacked by mosquitoes. When I finally reached the peak, I was not very sure with the directions so I asked one older German group leader. He was very nice and told me how to get down, but firstly wanted to show me a great view from the cliff. At least the view was worth of all the struggle. I was advised that in the monastery that you can see in this picture, one have a great opportunity to indulge him/herself with delicious Bavarian beer. You did not need to tell me much after my long biking travel in the sun to persuade me to go there. We were supposed to meet there and finish the chat we started on the cliff. This lunch break was actually a great idea. I needed to stop for a while anyway and nothing could be better as drinking well-deserved beer in a monastary that proud itself with brewing the first beer in the world! I was really lucky that I came across this place. 

Once again I bit more than could chew as far my map planning is concerned. As a result, I was lacking behind and had to bike until 11 pm. The next day, I was supposed to arrive in Ulm, where my couch host Judith was expecting me; therefore, it was important to be on time. The estimated arrival was at 7 pm, there were 100 “map“ km to make the next day and I was still behind later at night. Therefore, I tried to do as much as possible, but the roads were badly marked and in the dark it was really difficult to ride through forest lanes. Eventually I gave up and put my tent in a crop field near the forest. I was tired as hell, but that night, I had another scary experience that later did not let me fall asleep so easily again. Around 2 am, I was woken up by immediate squeaking and clatter. It was obvious that hogs were around, but then it was becoming even more intensive. Suddenly, I could distinguish two different “voices“. One of a small cub and the other, much huskier, of its mum. Apparently, the young one got lost and frantically tried to find its mother. Generally speaking, wild hogs are not dangerous for people, unless they are hurt or feel protective of their off springs. In such cases, they can become extremely savage and there is little that human can do to save his skin. I have heard stories of a hunt on wild pigs in which one big daddy had to be shot 7 times from close distance with a shotgun before it bit the dust. Not a fat chance that one could defend against a wild hog with a knife, unless you have a sword, katana, axe or any other heavy cold weaponry from the middle ages. I did not even have a small knife and no wonder that with my pepper spray locked in my tent, I did not feel particularly safe. I was really in anguish that the young one goes astray near to my tent and its big mamma would think that my very presence was the reason for all troubles. If that had happened, I would have been left totally defenseless, as there were no trees to climb on and even worse, I was in my tent, unable to run away in case the swine swoop on me. Even though I did the pleasant duty of marking my territory around the tent to scare away any animal intruders, one could never know if the stupid cub in its panic does not disregard these warning signs and trespass my claimed territory. I was only to hope that something like that would simply not happen. The horror spectacle last for about an hour, taking the scene few times quite close to my place until they finally found themselves. What a sigh of relief! I just love happy endings and I was really pleased that this story starred me only as an observer and not as an actor. 


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