Translate

Aug 28, 2013

Day 20

"I met a lot of people in Europe.  I even encountered myself."  ~James Baldwin



This morning I woke up around 6:30 and at seven I was already on the road. I woke up earlier to arrive in Tours in the morning and to do sightseeing in peace without any hurry. Similarly, as I have cursed the road from Dijon to Orleans, I must praise it this time. The Veloroute de la Loire is in its beauty equal to the Black Forest in Germany. The road goes along vineyards, picturesque villages, old castles, and of course, the beautiful river La Loire which with its rich meanders full of habitation leaves the dully Danube significantly behind. Again I have had the chance to experience the morning charm of the waking up countryside. However, it occurred to me that the French do not particularly maintain everything nice and tidy as the Germans and Austrians by whom it comes from their very nature. Here you can feel Savoire Vivre or put in other words, why should I mow my lane if I do not necessarily have to? I will rather chill out and drink some Bordeux instead. Yes, obviously, they do not give a damn. I do not know what I like more – I admire the German precision, yet incline with my laziness to the French lifestyle. 

I arrived in Tours pretty smoothly and the first thing I had on my program was to find the nearest big supermarket and fetch some breakfast as I did not have anything else but my iron ration. I needed, once again, desperately charge my flat batteries so I ask a lady at the information boot if I could leave my phone there until I finish my shopping. I started quite funny, saying something like I – tourist – want – many – pictures, but – battery – flat – need – recharge. How interesting that the French are very helpful if you speak just a little in their language. They obviously do appreciate that. 

Now I totally must describe my blissful experience during my breakfast. In Supermarché (you might guess that it is a big supermarket) I bought my favorite food that is called pain au chocolat (a viennoiserie sweet roll filled with chocolate) here in France. I usually buy it in Slovakia and sometimes I have had the opportunity to taste some of them in hotels on the breakfast buffet where I used to work. I bought a big package of 10 these beauties, strode into a small park to sit on the bench and in order to enjoy my luxurious breakfast. The food looked the same, but as I tasted it, I was totally shocked! It was simply amazing, I felt like in the seventh heaven! This was a whole new level of pain au chocolat as I know it back from Slovakia and Austria, brought into the perfection in the French style with superior ingredients! I could not believe that it was so tasty. I was lost in reverie and the state of euphoria for the next 20 minutes and even forgot that I was sitting on a bench and there was heavy traffic all around me, I kind of lost my perception of everything around me but my food as if I were experiencing the sheer luxury of the moment. Well, you might find it funny that I am speaking so highly of some food, but this was for me an extremely intense experience, emphasized by the fact that I never tasted the real French pain au chocolat. It was no pain, but utmost joy and this chocolate stuff was totally delicious, even so ineffable that it is behind my Slovak vocabulary! As I was finishing off my delicious breakfast, a cleaner asked me if he could take the garbage. He also recognized the pilgrim's shell so we had a small chat. "Bon Chance", he wished me when I was about to go. It is very nice to get a little bit of encouragement from absolute strangers. 

After the breakfast I strode into the city centre and ran across a flea-market. I had enough time and thought that it would be a good idea to look around, just to soak the city atmosphere and maybe to even find something useful. I did find something – an original Swiss pocket knife. As you surely remember, I wanted to buy one in the Switzerland, but found it too expensive there. This guy was offering it for 10 € to me which was a good price, but then I instantly recalled what Judith taught me about bargaining in Asia and Africa: It is good and advisable to try to bargain, or try bargaining, however you like it. The first and the most important thing, as she said, is not to show that you have a clear interest in a particular item. I followed this advice and said the guy that hmm, nice, but I have to think about it a little. I will look at other things and decide on this later. He looked quite disappointed and said that for 8 € it is mine. I thanked, said alright, that is a fair discount, but still, I can buy such a knife for 15 € and it will be brand new. I was bluffing, a new one costs around 30€. We chatted for a while about everything possible, exactly as one supposedly should do. Short thereafter, I went through the other stuff and interestingly, I found something that attracted me even more. A beautifully looking pocket knife with a peculiarly shaped purse that allowed wearing this knife discretly on the belt. It even had a small fork which I, as a food lover, found very useful. I showed him the knife, asking how much it cost. The guy said 15 € and I was quite put off by the price - I guess nobody would miss that blank expression on my face, either. Then he wanted to persuade me that the knife was of a very good quality and it comes from a renowned French smithery Languoile, decreasing the price to 12 €. I looked him square in the eyes and said like: “Hey, look, I do like that knife, but I do not really need it. I need only this Swiss knife, but if you could give me a fair price for both of them, I will gladly take them both.” He smiled and said: alright, for 17 Euros, 7 € for the Swiss knife aned 10 € for the pocket knife it is yours, but I cannot go down with the price anymore". I was happy to drive such a good bargain, but I obviously could not show it, so I only gave him a warm smile and agreed to the deal. Later on, I looked up the knife on internet and realized that it was a pretty good damn deal, indead. That knife is of a superior quality and costs around 55 € without the purse. The guy knew it was a good brand, but apparently did not have an idea about its real value. And this is the story as I acquired the most original and useful souvenir from France which I hope will serve me for a long time J

The sights were just alright, something stunned me, the other disappointed. I was nicely surprised by the artistic glass work in the cathedral – each glass was saying a different story, it was like the bible encrypted in glass paintings. On the other hand, I was disappointed by the minuscule castle which consisted of a small tower and something like a wall. It resembled more a small fortress than a castle. Similarly, I was disappointed by the city centre that was basically one huge avenue with a plethora of various super expensive shops. Almost all restaurant and coffees were situated in next streets where drove one car after another which totally spoiled the overall atmosphere.

For my lunch break I went to the university to recharge my batteries, to arrange another couchsurfing, and to check my e-mails. I actually went to a research institute where a man asked me what I was looking for. There was no need for hidden intentions so I said clearly that I am looking for some electricity plugs and asked him if he could be so nice to show me some. He looked as if he had no problems with that at all, showed me a room where I could recharge two devices at the same time and even advised me that I had better keep an eye on my bike because there are many thieves in the city

From 4:30 to 8:30 pm, I biked the whole time with small breaks to catch up on my daily routine. It is funny to feel how tiredness and lack of energy is overcoming you and you simply do not have enough juice to continue. I pulled over to have dinner and I managed to find a beautiful parking lot by the river with benches and other camping facilities. I was seriously thinking about staying there, but in the end I went on because I wanted to stick to my plans. There was one fascinating thing on the dinner. I wolfed down 500 g of musli which was the whole package, and when I checked the nutrition value, just by this single meal I was at the 120% of DRV. Now here is the clear reason why I love sport: Among other reasons, I also like sport because I love food. Exercising increases my appetite, allows me to eat more and even enjoy the food more. Of course, there are plenty of other reasons such as keeping myself in shape, sport rush etc. but one peculiar and for me very important reason is precisely this one: I can enjoy food to the fullest, literally: D

Due to my recent morning bird habit, I become rather tired at 10 pm, as soon as the sun goes down. I ran across an interesting spot: a park near the river with benches, playground and even a toilet. I did not need to think twice whether I stay there, even though I had not biked as much as I had planned. I was tired as hell, but it took me a while to fall asleep because frogs were awfully croaking all over the place.


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